Death in the afternoon. Life in the morning. by Jules Furth

The cries of, "OLE" rings out every Sunday afternoon in the Plaza de Toros in just about every city and town in Mexico. Aficionados of bull fighting and fans of matadors crowd the corridas to witness the death of the animals. But now, a different cry is being heard throughout the land. "FORE." is emanating from the throats of thousands of new found participants enjoying a game of golf made possible by the growth and building of new courses in key areas. The thrust of the muleta is being replaced by the swing of the club. And American tourists are finding that there are other golf destinations besides Hawaii. The number two-golf destination outside the continental United States is Mexico. Hawaii still occupies number one. Ask a typical American where they will take their vacations in Mexico and the answer will probably be Acapulco and Cancún. No disrespe

ct but this is hardly like leaving home. This is not "Mexico." Yes, there is good golf in both of these cities but the real story and the true flavor of Mexico is to be found in other parts of the country.

Los Cabos is the leading golf center and located in the tip of the Baja California peninsula. With seven magnificent oceanside tracks and two more are in the offing, Los Cabos is ranked 14th in the 50 most popular golf centers in the world. I have written several times about this "Palm Springs with an ocean," setting. But I just returned from a brief tour of Mexico where I discovered some fantastic courses in cities you would not consider golf destinations.

To start out with, Guadalajara/Jalisco boasts of five courses, Manzanillo- four, Ixtapa- two, Ixtapan de la Sal- one, Monterrey- three, Ensenada- one, Mazatlán- one and Puerto Vallerta- three. These cities are mentioned because at least one of their courses is rated in the top 100 by many national golf magazines and yet ignored by the traveling golfer.

Mexico City has about 14 courses but does not come under the "Resort" classification. Puerto Vallerta’s third course called Villa Vallarta hosted the 2001 NCAA Tournament. A second adjoining this is under construction by Troon Management. The nearby Mayan Peninsula just beyond Cancún has one course and is trying to overcome some environmental problems in their expansion of the Mexican Riviera. Most of the aforementioned are not even considered by American tourists or even for golfers but should be inked in on one's "must-do" list.

In attending the extensive Tianguis (Market) in Acapulco via Mexicana Air Line, where we heard addresses by President Vincente Fox Queseda (just returned from Quebec's Free Trade Conference) and Tourism Secretary Bertha Leticia Navarro Ochoa who were very optimistic and upbeat regarding tourism in the future. Appointments were made for the ensuing year and after renewing friendships with fellow writers, I went to Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta.

Before leaving, I played the Fairmont Pierre Marquis and Princess courses in Acapulco where service is paramount under the watchful eye of Golf Manager Wayne Sisson. They were hos

ting a Senior Amateur Tournament so I got to play with my contemporaries. Really sorry I didn't get to play the beautiful Tres Vidas course, but next time.

Guadalajara is a short hop by Aero California Air Line and the course records are still intact as I didn't play them, but a tour of Jalisco's capital city proved educational. This is the second largest metropolis next to Mexico City and with its dedication to parks and squares; I was reminded slightly of the Chicago Burnham plan. I sat in a senator's seat in the Congress and viewed the magnificent Orozco frescos that also graced the ceilings of the main staircase. It is a powerful statement showing the liberation of Mexico. Much of the original flavor of the city's founding in 1542 can be found in its architecture. This is not a tourist trap and you are not bothered constantly by people trying to sell you something. The Degollado Theater is done in Greek revival and modeled after the La Scala Opera House. The regal boxes raising six high are awesome. Guadalajara is also home to another national treasure. It is called tequila. José Cuervo and Sauza are upgrade, further aging in wooden barrels is necessary. The next grade is created by aging forty days. After four months the color turns a slight yellowish and is called añejo. Nine months product is called Reposada and the best grade comes after 11 months and is named Supreme. Prices range from 240 to 1800 pesos with a current exchange rate of about 9.25 to the dollar. A sumptuous lunch followed in the patio where a huge white oak rose majestically in the center. Its spacious branches spread covering us like a canopy. And to top off this setting, the beautiful sounds of the "Tequila Express," the number two-ranked mariachi band played for two hours during the repast and ample product sampling. I personally prefer the tequila with some sangrita on the side. Salt optional. Guadalajara is also hosting a Mariachi Festival and National competition in September. If you want a preview, just go down to the Mariachi plaza any evening, sit and have a drink under umbrella tables and have a choice of at least 15 to 20 bands from 4:30 p.m. until around midnight.

Tlaquepaque (don't ask me to pronounce it!) is the charming district attracting tourist attention. About eight square blocks of fine shops, art galleries, restaurants and factories where one can eat, drink and buy the best of Mexican handicrafts. Pottery and paper mache abound. The area is patrolled by a very special police force called, "Dirección de Seguridad The Publica." This basically translates into, "Tourist Police," and is a hand picked-specially trained unit under the supervision of Commander Nora Angelica Rodríguez. Her unit speaks perfect English, provides protection to the area and each officer is extremely personable and out going. About a two to three hour walk in this wonderful space makes for a pleasant afternoon.

On to Puerto Vallarta via AeroLitoral airlines and a brief stay at the Hacienda Cora before returning home. This boutique hotel is 42 rooms and 21 villas and perched adjacent to the Marina Vallarta Golf Course. Charming facility with fabulous food and spacious rooms. José Ludwig Estrada Virgen, the Director of Tourism course - Villa Vallarta. He drove me out there and decided he wanted to see the course himself. He also wanted to play. I told him that he was more than welcome to play with me. We got to the first tee and I hit off and he said, "Nice shot." He teed up and hit about 140 yards straight down the fairway. We went to his ball and he took his driver and proceeded to put his tee in the ground and hit it again. I very politely informed him that tees were only to be used in starting play in the tee boxes. He looked at me and told me he had never played before! But I am here to tell you he caught on very quickly and I hope that he can get out of his very busy government office and take the game up. He is a lot further along than I was on day one.

The Villa Vallarta course was opened in October of 2000 and is one of Jack Nicklaus's Signature Series. The architecture is not what you would call typical" Nicklaus but instead brings some numerous forced carries into play. Jack's elevated greens however are prevalent and the bunkers are well placed. It was a delight to play in its pristine condition and when it matures will offer great playing conditions for players of every ability. The front has carries on holes 3, 6 and 9 while the back nine is a bit more challenging. The 13th hole is rated 14 handicap but takes a perfectly placed tee shot on this short 314 par 4. The finishing 400 yard 18th is a severe dogleg left and requires a 250-yard tee shot from the blues in order to see the green for the second shot. The course features four tees from the Red at 5251, White at 6031, Blue at 6595 and it is 7057 from the tips. The college kids had a ball here. The management of Marina Vallarta course will also make arrangements for this course. Green fees are under $200.

The evening was spent taking a boat trip from the Marina to the little isolated island of Caleta where a torchlight supper was served followed by an incredible show by the Mexico City Ballet company in a natural theater setting in the rocks. For the bargain price of about 540 pesos you are treated to the boat ride, dinner, show, and all the alcohol you can consume plus some additional fun and surprise entertainment on the boat. It was a fitting end to a wonderful trip. My thanks are extended to the Mexican Office of Tourism, Sectur and their fine representatives in each city whose courtesy and professionalism contributed to a most successful and pleasurable journey.

For additional information, contact your nearest office of the Mexico Tourist Bureau or your travel agent.